Tour d'Italia--The Catch up Tour!

Cinque Terre...and...home!

2006-06-30T04:12:00.000-07:00

Upon arrival, I just slept. Both Shane and Jason came in and out but they don't make much effort to hang out with me since they'll be leaving so soon.

Then next morning, I get up early by the dawn. I am taking Shane's advice and start my hiking early. It should take 5 to 6 hours to walk all 5 towns, he said. "Well, 5 hours to you, 8 hours to me," I laugh as I tell him.

I get the hiking trail ticket, get myself Italian breakfast, which is, a cappucino and brioschi... Italians don't believe in breakfast. Ever since I came here to live, what I missed the most is the big American or British breakfast, with bacon and eggs, toast with butter and jam, a cup of English tea with milk, black and white puddings, omlette with cheese/bell peppers/mushrooms/ham/bacon/onions, or biscuit with white gravy, or crossant sandwich with bacon egg and cheese. Mmmm!!!

So I was for 6 hours of hike, breakfasted with mere coffee and a piece of pasty, and off I went. It was a breeze between 3 villages. The sun did not come out yet, so I could stay nice and cool. Hazy weather made it difficult to take clear pictures but hell, I was not going to complain about the weather. The scenery is absolutely stunning. Blue water, rush greenery, olive trees, lemon trees, fig trees with their perfume all over the air, sea gurls, all the strange rock formation... Oh, how I missed the sea!

I went towards the 4th village, and the hike became more difficult. Thanks to my Dr Martin sandals, they are serving the purporse for real. Unless I didn't think I'd be able to hadle all this walking. Going up and down the hills, I find all kinds of strange plants, birds, flowers, and so many cactuses. Too bad it's not the middle of the summer so we can't eat the fruits off of them... The flowers are sure pretty still.

There are many cats along the way. They cry and ask for food and water as you pass by. Oh well, sorry, the water's for me and I don't have any food on me... Catch the lizard or something.

The last one was the most difficult of all. Compare to this one, all the others were warm-up. I thought about going for a horse riding after the hike. Probably I have enough time for that but my legs are about giving in. I will fell off and probably hurt myself at this rate...

After the last village, Monterosso, I take the train back to Riomaggio. I thought about walking back but I don't feel like it. Then I saw the maids about to change the bed sheet. Since Jason checked out this morning, I tell then I want to move my bed to his. I don't feel like climb up and down the bed every time. And they told me I cannot do that.

"I will use this bed, he left today."
"No, this is your bed. You use this bed."
"Do you understand? He left today. I want to use this bed!"
"No... This is your bed. You use this bed."
"I don't understand what's the problem. Why can't I use this bed?"
"No, no..."
I am tired. I am cranky. And my Italian is up to my limit. I start to go off on the maid girl in English.
"I don't see what's the problem here. Will the sky fall down if I move the bed? What's the reason why I cannot change the bed? I don't like the top bunker. I want to move!"
"I don't understand. I don't understand English."
Oh, the bitch wants to play dumb, huh?
"You ask at the office."
"You want me to ask at the office? I will ask at the office."
So I go and ask. Man at the counter says that's fine but I have to change the sheet myself.
So I go back. Jason's bedsheet has already been changed. As I start stripping the bed I am totally getting pissed. They could just change the top bunker sheet. But they didn't want to because that'd be harder to do. I came to relax. I didn't come back to make bed after the long hiking. As I curse and shout as I change the sheets, the maid girls call the office lady.
"Madam, what's wrong?"
"They told me I can't change the bed. I went to the office and was told that's fine. But I have to change the sheets myself!"
"Why do you change bed?"
"Because I don't like the top bed. I don't like climbing up and down all the time."
"Has the sheets been changed?"
"Yes! It has been changed. I didn't pay to make bed. I only paid to sleep here! I still had to do it because THEY DID NOT WANT TO!"
"Okay, okay, madam. If you just wanted to change the bed, I don't have problem with that. They don't speak any English. Please understand."
"Fine."
Had I been less tired, I'd work it out in more diplomatic way, but this is what happens when I am tired and cranky.
So I scrawnge my stuff around and bought myself a Cinque Terre Biancho. A pretty damn good wine. While I was sipping wine, Shane comes back, and a new girl checks in. We go to the sea and swim for a bit, and there I find a bunch of sea urchins in the water. I really want to capture them because they are delicious! You will have to pay about $7 a piece in Japanese Sushi restaurant. But I am not sure if I can capture things out of the sea. I might get fined. So I give up. After I swim for a while, I come back. Thanks to the water goggle I picked up from the pool, I could get to see all kinds of things at the bottom.
"Rock beach is a whole lot more fun than the sand beach." That's what Filippo told me once.
"There are more to see. Besides, rocks are less messy than sand when you get out of the water." I suppose he's right.

On the way back to the hostel, I saw 3 American girls. 1 was totally drunk and out of control. She couldn't stand up and she's kicking and screaming at everyone around her. They are getting off at the train station next to my stop and I tried to help as much as I can but she was totally out of it. The attendant calls the police and mumbles something about Americans... Somehow that makes me upset. I usually compain about ignorant, ugly Americans myself but after all, America is still my country.

I come back. I am tired. Everyone's out looking for hookups. It's such a romantic place, one could easily find guys/girls to sleep with I suppose, but I don't feel like it. As a matter of fact, the whole time here I met NOBODY. Oh well, so be it. So I fall asleep. Just one more day and I will be gone...

I slept in late. Then I getup to find something to eat. There is a deli I usually go to get my food. And there I found muscoli rippieni (stuffed mussels)! I buy a few of them and cinque terre biancho and some veggies and bring it to the town square. This is a place where I bring all my food to eat. There's no kitchen in the hostel so one would always buy food to eat. And I always eat outside to save money. The taste was amazing. I decide to have some more for dinner.

Then I purchase a train ticket to go to Monterosso. There I decide to swim for a bit more and get myself a train ticket home...
Yeah. Home...
I don't miss it there. I just want to travel like this forever.
As I walk around the town, looking for a spot to hang out on the beach, there I hear what a guy was saying as he passes me by with a perverty smile. "mmm, but what a beautiful Japanese..." Why "but" is there, shit if I know. I suppose that's what they say in Italian. But I'm not flattered. I don't appreciate the perversion. And I don't want to be mistaken for Japanse or Chinese. I frown and move on.

I spend some time on the beach and went to a restaurant that my guidebook recommended. There I had muscoli rippienti again. I liked it so much I wished I could have it in my town.

I come back to the room. Fuck, it started to rain! The sky is crying for me that I have to return. It's okay. It's not over yet. The very first chance I get I will run away again, until I have to come back...

I wake up in the morning and pack. No one checked in so it was me and the girl. "It was so nice meeting you" she said. We indeed have some good conversation. It was nice to have another girl's company after a while. Then I had a cup of capuccino and a briosch in a bar before I headed out.
"So, you're an angel, no? Very beautiful."
An Italian guy tells me as I am drinking my coffee. Very first time anyone asked me ever since I went on this trip...

I get on the train. All kinds of memories pass me by. It is over. It is REALLY over. My longest travel I have ever done. The most amazing, exciting, fun, lovely trip of all. I think about all the people I met, I stayed with, and all the things they have done for me. Giovanni in Sadinia, Filippo, Gianni, Vito, Domenico, Giovanni in Roma, my roomates I met in hostels, all the nice Italians I encountered. It was a wonderful life experience. Now I am going back to Friulli. The sky gets greyer. The temperature gets cooler. People's complexion gets lighter and so are the forests. Sun shines more softly and now I know finally I came back.

Yes, now I am back.

I will miss the South. I will miss the sun, the pebble beach, the blue water, the food, and cheery happy friendly people who thinks everyone's their friend.

Now I am back.

Off we go, Cinque Terre! But Pisa first...

2006-06-28T06:34:00.000-07:00

I get to hop on the train to leave Roma. Now I am off to Cinque Terre. I am almost there. I will be home soon.

Around 1 pm, my phone rings. It was Giovanni.
"Cìao, Nic! I just woke up. Can we get togethere so I can show you around a bit?"
Perhaps I should've texted him and telling him I am about to leave.
"No, sorry Giovanni. I am leaving..."
"Oh, can we get together and get something to eat then?"
"No, no... I am so sorry, Giovanni. I am already leaving. I didn't want to get there late and end up running into a problem like when I got here. I will come back. I am sure Roma will still be here when I come back."
"Ahhhhh I am sorry, Nic. I went to bed late and I woke up. I didn't know you were coming this weekend. I am so sorry."
"It's alright. It's alright! You've already done so much for me! There will be next time and we will meet again, okay?"
"Yeah, have a nice trip."
"Yes, yes, I will. Take care, thanks for everything."
"Yeah you too."
I smile as I hang up the phone. People like him makes my trip 100 times better.
Later, I get the text message from him.
"I am sorry, I wanted to show you around a bit and cook something nice for you at home. Enjoy your trip."
Missed my chance for another nice home cooked meal, but oh well...

However, I ran into a littlebit of problem. I was so tired since I got next to no sleep last night, I fell asleep and missed my stop. God only knows how many stops I went through never waking up! The train already reached the final stop in Livorno.

I panic and check the schedule. Next available train won't get there in Monterosso until 3 am. Everything will be closed. Oh gees, what shall I do? Then I think about the most craziest thing that is beyond bravery, or better yet, deadly stupid thing as most people might say. I decide to find the place to sleep out on the street.

I look around, and there are plenty of hotels. But there would be no hostels due to lack of tourists there. The first bow I made to myself was never ever to sleep in hotels throughout my trip, unless the sky falls down.

Then I decide to call my acting babysitter Shannon. He used to live there so I thought he might be able to hook me up with someone I can stay with. He tells me there will be some hotels that I can stay for about 55 euros at night.

"No... I don't want to stay in hotels." I tell him. "I might crash in the train station."
"I will try something. Let me figure something out. And I will call you back. But don't sleep in train station."
"Okay, I won't. I will figure something out."
He calls me moments later.
"Well, everyone's either got their phone turned off or not answering. Really, you should get a hotel room."
"Oh, don't worry. I will figure something out."
"Don't sleep in the train station!"
"Okay, I won't."
Then my phone battery runs out.

100 euros in cash in my hand. I could easily get myself a hotel room if I ever wanted. But that would be meannigless for my trip. I check around the area and there is a park with a lot of benchs. Well, I did not lie to Shannon. I told him I won't sleep in the train station, but I never said I won't sleep on a park bench right outside of the train station, did I? I look around. A couple homeless bums here and there, and some women standing around who might be... Prostitudes? I look around some more and I find a street bum with his dog, who is just setting up his bed on a bench. I approach to him and go aroudn him in circle to see his reaction.
"Don't worry. He's a good dog." He smiles and tells me as I pass by looking at his dog. He continues to look at me as I circle around him. He is trying to do nothing to me. "He is good... I will sleep next to him. He will make sure nothing will happen to me. He needs a friend. He will do anything to keep me by his side as long as he can..." I thought to myself. Then I look around some more. I make a note of some cardboard boxes that I can place under me and go to use the toilette in the train station. As I walk out, a guy is approaching to me.
"Excuse me, speak English?"
American accent. A guy who is speaking English to me in here? Who could this be? Did he get lost as well and trying to figure his way?
"Yes."
"Is your name Nic?"
"...Yes?"
"Hi, I am Shannon's friend. He told me to come get you because you are stranded."
...Shannon knew me better indeed...
"Wow! I can't believe he actually found somebody! Thank you so much for coming out!"
"Oh, no problem. I was just wondering how you'd know if I was his friend. I was like, what if she says no, go away!!!"
We were trained to never trust anyone. Trust anyone and you will get killed. Too bad. Too sad.
He brings me to someone else's place, Chad, since he lives right by the train station. Then the phone rings.
"Hi, Shannon? Yeah, I found her. Yeah, I brought her to my friend's place. I thought it would be better since he lives right here."
Then they suddenly switch the conversation to Italian.
"Yes, yes, I know him. He's good. Yes, I know him well."
Shannon wanted to make sure I will be in good guy's hand, but in case he isn't, he didn't want me to get paranoid. So he is speaking in Italian hoping I won't understand. Shannon is a good guy through and through. He is one of only very few people who can understand me.
Fortunately, Chad takes me in graciously. I showered, slept, and left to catch the train. Before I depart, I give him the link to my blog.

Okay, so I hop on the train. Finally, I am REALLY on my way. I have to switch the train in Pisa, so I decide to hop off and check out the leaning tower of Pisa. The town is beautiful, and clean. Tuscans possess their own beauty. Eyes and hair softer than the Southerners, but not quite as light as Friullians around my area. This is the middle point of Italy. This place seems to have the best of the best from both South and North. People have friendliness of Southerners but not as chaotic. As I watch young men with their long, ringlettes of brown hair, I understand where the image of David comes from. Southern men can be black mustangs, Northern men can be white Arabs. But here, they are andalucians of all. The most magnificent and beautiful of all kind.

I get to have a rather comical picture taken with the help of... Well, I think they are swiss couples. They spoke German but the accent was not quite recognizable... That is my assumption anyway. Once spoken German is unusually pleasing to my ears, it always happens to be from German speaking Swiss.

And I head back to the train station. Curse my sense of direction, if there was any! I ask a man on the street where the train station was.
"Well it's over that way... But did you see the tower?"
Typical Italian behavior. I only asked for the direction to the train station and he wants to make sure I got to see the tower. That's what's very nice about Italians. This trait goes both North and South. Ask Italians anything. Not only you will get the answer, but they will volunteer all kinds of extra information to you.
"Do you want to go to the museum? It's over that way. But why don't you wait until tomorrow? You can enter for free, you know." Or, "Do you want to catch the bus? It's over that way. Remember, the bus leaves every 20 minutes. What time is it now? Goodness! Next bus leaves in 10 minutes so you need to hurry!"

So I get back in the train. Change in La Spezia, now I am in Monterosso... as I was passing by a very strange view of Northern Appeninnes..

I AM IN CINQUE TERRE!

I call Patrick and get some information out on place to stay. He's just been here not too long ago. He enthusiastically explains all the things he as done, and liked. The nudist beach especially. Yeah yeah, he's a young chap. He likes that kind of stuff... I found a hostel room in Riomaggio. I unpack my stuff and meet my 2 roommates, Shane, the Australian guy and Jason, the American guy. They were both friendly but leaving very soon.

The place is so beautiful. I wanted to walk around, but due to the lack of sleep for past 2 days I am unable to do anything. Most of the day I just lay in my bed trying to fall asleep but perhaps because of the heat, I am unable to. Shane tells me about the hiking between all 5 villages, which he really enjoyed. I am about to do that myself. He tells me it's the best to start very early of the day because of the heat. Makes sense... I manage to fall asleep and hope I feel better next day...

I am in Roma!!!

2006-06-24T07:54:00.000-07:00

After I paid 17 euros for the insalata Caprese and a beer, I head back to Napoli. Was it worth that much money? Probably not. But did it taste good? Sure. Can I make it better than it was myself? Yes. But I had to have it. Besides, having a homemade Caprese salad at home is n nothing like having it by the sea overlooking the isola di Capri. Nowadays, it is almost priceless for me to be able to say that I had swedesh meatballs in Sweden, Danish pastries in Denmark, Crepes in France, Pizza in Napoli, Belgian waffles in Belgium, Viennese coffee in Vienna, sushi in Japan, goulash in Hungary... The beachs were nice and I thought about swimming, but I am in no hurry. It is reserved for my time in Cinque Terre...

And I come back to Napoli. Never thought I'd miss it here...

The time is pretty late. I don't feel like to try out the hitch hiking. So I get ahold of the train ticket to Roma and head out. I was short on change, but the man at the ticket counter says not to worry about it. Then there was a ticket I didn't get to validate for the bus. I am about to leave now, so the ticket will be useless to me. I simply handed it to a guy who passes me by.
"I don't need it anymore. I leave today."
He holds the ticket and looks at me. All he did was to smile because that made him speechless. His stunned look was very amusing and I hop on the train.

There I met a Aussie guy named Justin. We sat next to each other and he was a real good company. I walked around Capri and Napoli all day, and he walked around Pompei all day. Both of us are all dusty and covered with sweat. The smell of two filthy back packers must have been overwhelming... We split after train stops, and I give him my phone number and e-mail and offer him a place to stay once he comes around in Venezia. Hell, after all the hospitalty I received from all my Italian friends, I can pay forward, I thought. And I text to Giovanni to inform him I will be in Roma tonight. He calls me back to tell me he's in Milano at the moment, and he will be back tomorrow evening, and he feels very sorry he couldn't greet me right away. I keep on telling him it's not his fault. And we agree to have a dinner together when he comes back to Roma.

And I am now in Roma...
1 more destination and I'll be done...
I am almost home...

The train arrives after 11 pm. All metros stopped running so I asked around people and caught the bus. At the changing point, there really won't be any bus, a nice lady next to me said. Then she's asking me if I am with anyone, and I tell her I am on my own.
"Awwwww..." Look of worry shows on her face, and I tell her not to worry. At the bus stop, I start walking. A blister started forming on my right food. Not a good thing at all if I want to hike in Cinque Terre...

I walk and walk and walk. I ask around people for directions but no one seems to know. I am getting tired. And agitated. And cranky... I don't even make any efforts to speak Italian anymore and anyone who bumps into me I get so pissed off.

Finally I found the camp site. It is rather impressive place. I never stayed at campgrounds before and I was quite content. I took a shower and I am exhusted. I make my bed and go to sleep.

I wake up next morning and the first thing that came to my mind was doing the laundry, and charge my mobile and camera battery. There are places where I can hand wash stuff and I hang them dry. Thanks to the Rick Steven's laundry cord that doesn't need cloths pin... It was quite handy in Vito's place in Matera too. Dayum, Nic, since when you became so ghetto? I ask myself. While I was getting the batteries charged, I decide to take a dip in the swimming pool. I spot an abandoned water goggle and quickly claim it.

"You don't steal. You never steal from fellow travellers. When you are at a place where lots of people gather, there will always be something that somebody leaves behind. THAT is what you claim. Umbrellas, sleeping mats, flashlights... You just go to the lost/found center and ask. Whatever they bring it out, say 'yeah, that's it!' and take it... Unless it will never be used anyway."

This is the trick Demian taught me when we were in Budapest. Backpackers never steal from each other. Instead, they share everything under their possession. It's almost an obligation once asked, because you just never know when it is your turn to ask for a favor.

Then I decide to go to the Sisten chapple, one of my missions in Roma. I ran into a real sweet Aussie girl named Mani. We explored the Vatican Museum together. Didn't get to see Shannon since he had to leave soon after I got back... Such a magnifisant place! Who in this world would not love Roma! I loved this place completly since the day 1. We come back to the camp site and I strip off my T-shirt, long pants, and closed toed shoes. I brought them along with me and carried with me all this time soley to enter the Vatican. Now that they outlived their usefulness, I leave them in the laundry room so someone can take them.

I head out again, and look for Spanish steps... It was easy to find. But Pantheon was a difficult one. I found a guy a lady and a nun and followed them along to get there. There we found the Pantheon and I take some pictures.

...Mission has been accomplished...

I found an Irish pub, so I go in and have a pint of Guiness. As I walk around the street looking for an internet cafe while I was waiting to meet up with Giovanni, a guy approachs to me and asks me if I am Japanese.
"No, Korean."
He follows me along and asks me where I am going. I tell him I am looking for an internet cafe. He walks along and asks around for me but there's non around the area. Then I notice he is getting more touchy as he keeps on talking to me. So there goes my favorite phrase.
"...Non Tochare me."
He backs off, and I tell him I need to meet a friend of mine.
"An Italian?"
"Sì."
He backs off right away.

I wait for Giovanni to call me. He was running late because his flight got delayed. He keeps apologizing for not being here and I keep telling him it's not his fault. We meet up and with his friend Pepa we go to a dinner. And he took me to a place where all Romans go to hang out at. It was a very nice time. When he brought me home, it was almost 2 o'clock in the morning.

I woke up early. I couldn't sleep very well because guys next to my tent were being loud and kept me up. Oh well, now my stuff is packed, and now I am heading out to the final destination, Cinque Terre...

I think I like it here. :)

2006-06-22T10:51:00.000-07:00

I contacted all the people I can to get myself a place to stay in Roma. The result was no good. I can't stay in Giovanni's place and my choice is running out. So out of desperation, I reserved myself a camp site with a tent and a bed. Oh well. I thought about reserving myself a tent with 2 beds, but, I can use some privacy. Besides, I won't really need any company. I will arrive late at night on Friday and I will be dead tired. On Saturday, I will call Giovanni anyway... I will be just fine strolling street myself.

So I change my plan. I decided to give 1 more day in Napoli looking around the city. I will leave my bag pack in the hostel until I get to check out the isola di Capri and Sorrento. I will return and take my bag and head out to Rome. Hitch hiking? I'm not too sure. I will see what I feel like to do by then...

One thing puzzled me... I am so used to say/hear the word "arrivederci" meaning goodbye in my area. Since I left home, I never heard anyone saying it once. It was always simple "ciao." So I text to both Alessio and Gianni, asking "why no one ever says 'arrivederci' in South?" Hell, if I ask both Northern and Southern Italians, suppose I get a valid answer I thought, but there was no reply. So I took it as "shit if I know."
Va bene, raggazi.

I roamed around some more of the street and stroll to the streets I haven't been by the nuovo castello, and find the most magnifisant spots of Napoli!

Whoa! What took me so long to find these places out?!

I remember a poster of a really beautiful site... Palazzo Reale is here! I walk in there and my jaw drops as I am ashtoned by its beauty. I am totally impressed. The whole area around it is just lovely. Aha, now I am starting to understand why one would say Napoli is so beautiful. Man, this city is really growing on me. It took me 5 freaking days to finally like it here and I am about to leave. I got used to the traffic. I got used to the bus and metro system. Whoever said public transportation is bad down South, I wonder if they ever tried the public transportation in my area?

I do feel safe here. Coming back to the hostel around midnight I felt no threat.

As I am chewing a piece of pizza in my mouth galderoping around Piazzo Reale, a Japanese girl is asking me about the direction to the information office.
...Fuck, Nic. Where's all your Japanese skills?
I managed to ask the staff for the direction for her. She was very greteful and tells me "grazie."
What the fuck? I'm not an Italian, Girly!

Then I decided to visit the national acheological museum, since Zephyr once told me all the bodys and artworks got moved to the museum here. That was the reason why I didn't make much effort in Pompei to see everything. But it came across to me that there is no body from Pompei stored in museum here.
Zephyr... He's just no help for this trip...

As I enter the museum, the lady at the information desk warns me that they'll close in an hour. I said that's alright, that I am leaving tomorrow. And I go to the ticket counter, and the man at the counter gives me a free ticket since there's not much time left to see around the museum.
...Italians are just so unpredictable...

Okay, so I look around really quickly. There wasn't much in the museum since most of their display matrials are being restored anyway.

Now I am heading out to Mateo's to get myself another piece of pizza. Man, pizza here can be very addicting...

We gather around the hostel living room and eat pizzas we brought in, and drink beer. There I met Katy, an American girl who will also be in Roma and she told us she wants to meet up and do something because it's her birthday. We exchange e-mail and phone number and everyone takes shower and goes to bed.

I think about going to my bed, but it would be too bloody hot... I turn the fan on, and crash onto the couch that is in the livingroom. It's somewhat cooler there with no one around.

I wake up in the morning and start packing up. There I went to Sorrento, and check out a ticket to go to Isola di Capri. I got in the ferryboat and as soon as I arrive, I am just awed by its beauty. But I don't think I like it here. It's too clean. It's too expensive. I dart through the streets of Versace, Gucci, and all the expensive shops and feel like I've got no place to stay. It still is beautiful, but I don't feel home at here. I am not a high class Person, and in this place I'd get bored so fast!

Then Shannon texts me, "In Rome now." I text him back, saying we'll get together once I make it there. Just that I am not sure when I will be there... Never thought I'd meet him up there but still a company anywhere helps.

So I head out. I will make sure to try insalata di caprese before I head back to Sorrento, and Roma...

Chaotic Napoli, hot Pompei, and lovely Amalfi

2006-06-22T01:50:00.000-07:00

I packed my stuff and checked into the hostel... Couldn't stay with Domenico anymore becaues he said he'll be out of town. So I find a hostel in the guidebook and give them a call. When I drop in, I get rejected because they won't accept my ID as form of identification. So I called the 2nd place and make sure to let them know that I don't have my passport, and they say that's fine.

I try to navigate through the streets and subways. I am getting pissed because a lot of street signs are posted on the most unthinkerble places. Subway air is so toxic it's hard for me to breath. Some street signs are perfectly covered up because of some construction work. And one of them happens to be a street that I need to make a turn.

I can't seem to get used to the method of street crossing that is literally gambling with your life. It is either "successfuly cross the street or die." When one makes eye contact with the driver, the driver assums that you will wait for the traffic to clear so it's the best to just dodge in and hope they will stop.

Everything's chaotic in Napoli. The street, the building, and the people. One moment you run into people who will go out of their way to help you out, and the other moment they will do nothing for you. Taxi drivers stop for you when you try to cross the street and yell at you because you didn't take the chance. While asking for direction, young guys think I asked because I thought they were fine and tell me the direction with such flirty attitude. It's troublesome whenever I ask for the direction because of the Napolitan dialect. One person I can understand perfectly but the other person I can't understand one damn thing he/she is saying...

I keep on walking and it's very hot. I panic a little becaues I get the shortness of the breath. I barely managed to find the hostel and unpack my stuff. Then Domenico calls, checking and making sure I got a place to stay.

Then I walk along the street, trying to find some interesting spots. I visited a museum and roamed around a bit. Nothing really interests me here. It's down right chaotic... I go to a pizzaria and order myself a pizza. This place only makes pizza magherita. It has always been a good pizza but however, my the favorite pizza is the Caprese. When I got the pizza there are some basil leaves topped as bonus because guys there liked me. I bring it out in front of a church and devour it away. The camping utensiles I bring around everywhere with me are invaluable at times.

I come back to the hostel. I am exhusted. I couldn't sleep last night again. I go to bed by 9 pm. I woke up in the middle of the night and there are people in the living room having a good time. As much as I'd like to join them, I couldn't...

I wake up next morning and decide to visit Pompei. It was as if I was back in Sassi. A lot of people told me Pompei is not "all that," but I still liked it there. They are going through some restoration process but I thought it'd be better off without it... That'd be more... Original. However, it was hot... Very hot! After I walked around for a couple hours, I had it enough. I decide to go to Amalfi and spend some time there before I get back. While I was waiting for the bus, there's a man offers me a ride.
"Where are you going?"
"Amalfi."
"Come with me, we go together."
I check him out and I am not sure. He doesn't speak any English so he can't be targeting tourists... I might have hopped in if it wasn't my experience in Sicily. Besides, I ask to myself if he'd still offer me a ride if I was with someone else, and the answer was no.
"No."
"Come on, we can go together with MY CAR."
Mother fucker. Do you really think you can lure me with your cheap ass Fiat? Have you got any idea what kind of car I've got at home?
"No."
He's persistent, which makes me more reluctant. Finally he goes away and the bus arrives.

Amalfi was totally lovely. I adored their cathedral there. I didn't know they've got natural caves and I wanted to check them out but the time is running late... I ran into a nice old man who was taking a walk with a dog. I couldn't really talk back but he told me a lot of things about that area and how much he loves the mountains there. He told me he used to work in Napoli for a while, but somehow his Italian is very clear one with the Southern Italian accent that I understand so well. So different from flat sounding of the Northern Italians' speech... I like the way they sound. It really sounds like true Italian language that everyone thinks of. Even gentle, tranquil-natured Gianni's Italian speech is of a cheery, vibrant, happy up-and-down sounding of the Southern Italian's.

I take a sit by a cafe, order myself a crepe, and the girl there let me use the internet for free.
"If you come here often, then that's okay."
??!! Did she get me confused with someone else? However I am not complainting. Italians are really unpredictable sometimes I tell you.

I walked around for a while, and try to catch the bus to get back to Napoli. The bus driver informs me that I need to go to Salerno first and chage the bus, so I hop in. The scenery is truly beautiful and I think about Pat and how much she'd love to be here with me. Poor lady is in Hawaii but yet she still can't forget about her time in Italy...

The bus arrives in Salerno around quarter past 9. I try to catch the bus to Napoli and ask to the people standing around by the bus next to us.
"Napoli? It's finished. The last bus leaves at 9."
Fuck me.
"Take the train. The station is close to here. Ask people there."
So I go to the train station, and found out the train to Napoli is delayed. While waiting, there's a train that goes to Cosenza right in front of me, that I am very tempted to jump in...

Train arrived in Napoli. It's almost midnight. If I try to go back into the hostel after midnight they will charge me 5 euros. I barely managed to make it on time. After I left Domenico's place, everything's costing me money. They want money for using their olive oil. They want money for using their sugar for my coffee. While I was staying with my friends I never had to worry about that. Probably not a good thing, but I am now spoiled... No check out time, no curfew, no lockout... I got up whenever I wanted, I went to bed whenever I wanted. The Italians I stayed with spoiled me with their hospitality as I was their VIP. Especially Gianni. He managed to get me completely spoiled rotten. I was his 1st priority. He knew what I wanted or needed even before I mentioned, or better yet, realized myself. I realized I was hungry after he fed me. I realized I was thirsty after he placed a glass of water in front of me. When I was having fun tumbling around in a creek he took me to, he followed me with my shoes in his hand. I was coughing all night due to my acid reflux. I have forgotten my medications and I might end up getting an ulcer. When I woke him up in the middle of the night and asked for some milk, he asked me if I wanted it hot or cold. When I left, he handed me a bottle of water after noticing how much water I drink all the time and I wasn't even thinking that myself!

I fucking miss Gianni.

"Shall I go to Cosenza rigth now?" I sent him a text message. "Are you joking?? You know my place is always open to you. Remember here's a place you can always feel at home!" That's what he replied... At times, I was so tempted to ditch Roma and Cinque Terre and go back to Cosenza, but my mind was made up to finish this trip.
"I really want you to stay, but I know you have your mission that you have to accomplish..."
That's what he told me as I was about to catch my train out of Cosenza. And it'd be a shame not to finish this trip. Besides, I really should see Giovanni in Roma and treat him with some beer to thank him for letting me stay with his family in Matera.

So I press on, and I am on my way to Sorrento, and Isola di Capri.

Problem solved!

2006-06-19T10:31:00.000-07:00

Okay... My ID has been replaced. As I was in the installation, I ran into Zephyr.
"Hi Nicole."
He passes me by just like that. It's his way of telling me "I totally absolutely don't give a damn about you. You won't bother me one bit."
Fine.

I send SMS to my friends to let them know all is good now and head out to Napoli city center. I fail to understand why one would say it is romantic here. I also fail to understand why one would say it's dangerous here. I find a cathedral, and put my camera almost laid down on the ground and take a picture with great angle. Something I learned from Tristan, while I was visiting him in Paris. I wonder if he is taking pictures in front of mirrors now like I do? I roam around the city, and decide to make my visit to modern art museum. My favorite place to visit no matter where I am. And the entrance was free! A lot of weired things... There's no point. I love it because there's absolutely no point. The tourists' 3 day pass will be saved for tomorrow and from then on.

Then Vito calls to say hi. He wanted to know if I managed to get myself a place to stay. He knew I was having a hard time trying to find a place in Napoli. Roma is not looking good either. Giovanni, who is Filippo's friend, just informed me that he cannot take me in because he's too busy with work. Oh well, I suppose I really need to get myself a hostel room this time... That won't really hurt me. Perhaps I will be able to find myself a female companion. I miss Brandy. I miss Anna and Sonia. I miss Eve. From conversation with Eve, we found out how much Estonians and Koreans share the common thoughts. I want to talk about lipsticks skin care spas cloths makeups and men. Oh well. It's now time to head back...

The fest, and mighty Sassi!!!

2006-06-18T04:04:00.000-07:00

As I unpack my stuff, Vito calls me. "We're going to a party!" He says. Shit... I haven't got any fancy cloths for a party! My best looking outfit still has salt all over from Sardinia. Then I remembered, I've got no more underwear to wear either.

Immediatly, I go to bathroom and start washing my cloths. Thanks to my laundry hanger... Got to love Rick Steve's travel gadgets sometimes.

I took a littlebit of walk, and make a note of Tobacco shop where I can buy bus ticket. I will need that for tomorrow since Vito's place is not that close to the town center. After a bit, a phone rings... It was Vito. I hurridly return home, and Vito comes to greet me. He's with his cousin also named Vito. They are both warm, friendly, cheerful, hilarious, and happy. All that you can expect from Southern Italians. They stop by to pick up his girlfriend Meri, and we head out. It happens to be not exactly a party, but a fest in a town near Bari. We carry on the conversation with half English, half Italian. But we had so much fun anyway. I tell them all the places I've been. They think it's the coolest thing. Vito's cousin, Vito, tells everyone he runs into, "hey, this is Nic. She was born in Korea, then she lived in the USA, then Germany, than England, and now she works in Italy!" Which I thought was really cute.

We arrive at Polignano. Suppose this is another place that is so famous for Carnivale, besides Venice. Illuminated lights everywhere, almost like Christmas, or better. It was incredible and they ask if there's anything like this. "Only for the Christmas..." They laugh as I answer.

People are everywhere. There's a giant grill, where they are cooking BBQ with the biggest scewer I have ever seen (it's like 1 meter long, that's about a foot and half folks!). Cool! One can select whichever kind of meat inside, and they cook it outside. We take a sit and wait for our food. Life is good... I am having such a great time. What you can experience once you get together with the locals... And I think about how greatful I am for Giovanni who allowed me to stay in Matera. And Filipppo sent me an SMS message, saying he will look for someone who can take me in when I get to Roma. You go to love this guy.

Like any other fest, there are food, venders, and we stand around and enjoy the firework. Cool! We come back. It's around 3 am and I am totally beat...

I slept a lot. I slept and slept and slept. Well as a matter of fact, I've been getting up around noon just about every day. Sounds like a lot of sleep, but the problem is, I haven't been able to sleep very well at night. It might be my Vampire nature came back and have to sleep during the day, or change of surrounding prevents me from falling asleep, but either way I really haven't been getting any more than maybe 5 hours of sleep a day.

Around noon, I get up. As I sort through some of my stuff, I found a really big trouble.
...My ID card. It is lost. It slipped off of my wallet... I look around everywhere and still I am unable to find it anywhere.
Shit.
Since I am traveling within Italy, I didn't want to bring my passport. All I got now is a piece of paper that indicates my leave authorization. Oh well, until I get to Napoli, there won't be much I can do.

Vito's father calls me and tells me to give him a call once I return home. I go outside, buy a ticket for the bus, and wait for the bus. Vito stops as he drives to go to school. He offers me a ride so he can bring me to the town center.
"I told my father we should have dinner with you," he says.
"No, I don't want to be a trouble. That's alright."
"No, no! I think we must treat you because you're our guest!"
He's very busy preparing for the final exam at his university. He feels very bad that he can't take me out and show me around. But really, I know how to get to Sassi, and all I ever want was a place to lay my head.

He drops me off at the city center, where Sassi is. Ah ah, Sassi! How many Americans will say they've been there? As I enter the area, I am totally amazed at the sight. I have never seen anything like it before. Stone buildings, as old as before the Christ time. I follow around the windy paths and feels as if I am in different world. Bright sun, blue sky, dry air, and whole area that is so full of stones and buildings also made out of stone. The monotone terra cotta colored buildings but yet so beautiful in their own way that contains such a primitive beauty! As I came to the other side of Sassi, I stop at another sight by the hills next to town. There I see a strange rock formation full of caves. A creek runs beneath. Who'd ever think I'd see anything like this, in ITALY??? Such a strange place! Strange beauty! This place really makes me feel like I took a time machine and came to the primitive days.

Hot sun makes me happy. It is hot, but not that hot. I brought myself a 1 liter water bottle and finished it off. After all that walk I look around for a bar and saw a couple guys sitting outside drinking Spritz. SPRITZ!? They didn't have it in Cosenza! Cool! So I walk into the bar, ordered myself a glass of spritz, and chilled out a bit. I walk out and I feel a bit high. Alchole in my empty stomach does that sometimes...

As I walk out to the city center, I look for an internet point. I found one and disappointed because it was closed. In Southern Italy, most of the time they don't bother posting their hours. It is... Whenever... Oh well. It was around Siesta time anway.
I fucking hate Siesta.
I keep on looking trying to figure out the hours, and a woman approach to me.
"Do you need to use the internet?"
"Yes."
"You can use it in library. You will need a card. Not sure if you can get one but I can still ask for you. Come with me."
This is one best thing about Italians. You ask them 1 thing, and they'll tell you about 10 different things that is related to the matter. They love to help people out. There's one thing that I found which is very similiar with Koreans. They are people of "feelings." It's the best to approach asking for sympathy then logics. They think with their heart, not with their head.

Then I come back to Vito's place, and I make a phone call to inform my arrival to him. He was picking up a pizza for the dinner. He stops by to pick me up from my room and brings me to his place. It was lovely. I met his mother and she welcomes me with her warm smile. They try their best to speak English to me and be so very delighted whenever I understand what they are telling me. We had pizza and very delicious spaghetti and ice cream cake and her homemade liquor that was wonderful. Such hospitality. They putout the tablecloths that comes from Bari just for me. My food always gets served first. They will eat only after I take a first bite. Dayum! I'm really not used to this... They call Giovanni and let me talk to him for a bit.

We talked about a lot of things, but they are most curious about how I found out about Matera. They really appreciate the fact that I made my effort to come out to this place where no tourists hardly ever know of but Italians.
"It's wonderful you visit Matera, but no one comes here. How did you find out about here?" They ask. I tell them I read it from the guide book about Italy, and show them the book. I tell them where I am from, and that I live near by Venice, and Dolomiti mountains, and they are most welcome to come stay with me in Sacile. I showed them my place on the map. Vito's mother is delighted with no end.
"You said the magic word. Dolomiti mountains!!!" Vito laughs.

I pack up, and think about hitch hiking to Napoli but I wasn't too sure. My lost ID also worries me. And besides, I haven't found a place to stay yet in Napoli. I think about getting myself a hostel room, but that'd require some form of picture identification. Next morning, Vito's father got a hold of a cheap bus ticket for me to get to Napoli. Can't complain about 11 euros ticket... at all. And they offer me a ride to the bus/train station. Vito tells me he will make sure to visit so he can go skiing in Piancavallo.

Next morning, they bring me out to the train station. I have to wait for about an hour until the bus arrives. Allora, it is hot out, and I forgot to bring water. It is toally off the beaten track and there are nothing around this train station. I look around the area, and there are some good spots here and there for the hitch hiking. I think about abandoning my bus ticket and try hitching, but that'd be unsporty after Vito's father went through trouble going to the travel agency and found the ticket for me. While I was looking around the time table, a very fine guy carefully asks me if I am taking the bus to Matera. "No, Napoli" I answer, and he goes back to the bus. Hehehehehe... I was very tempted to say "want to come to Napoli with me?" But, that'd be a brutal... Mistake. So I wait, the bus arrives, and I get in.

Scenary changes again. Beautiful, beautiful mountains! Although I'm not much of a mountain person and I am a little tired of mountains now... I am admiring the beautiful rock formations, trees, creeks, and the sun and the blue sky. And it never stays the same. Every turns, there will be something different. Again, during 3 hours of bus ride, I am never bored.

Italy, she is really proving herself.
Before I went on this trip, I told myself, and everyone. "I don't like it here. I am not fond to Italy. I don't care what others think. But this time, I will give Italy a chance. I will let her prove herself to me. Otherwise at least I can say I have seen Italy."

So I think about how foolish I was to think of all these things. I can almost here her voice telling me:
"See? You are welcomed here. Everyone's welcomed here. You know my arms are open. I was trying to tell you but somehow you just never gave me a chance."
How amazing she has been to me! She provided me seashore, beautiful rock beach, breathtaking archetecs, delicious food, friendly people, gogeours mountains and uncompariable hospitality. The people... Unlike the reputation of their pervertedness, I stayed with all very dignified, honest Italian men who treated me with the upmost respect like a queen. Giovanni, Filippo, Gianni and Vito... And Giovanni who arranged everything for my visit in Matera all the way from Rome. I hardley paid for anything. All the doors opened for me. They carried my bag pack and tried their best for my comfort and went out of their way to show me around. My perception of Southern Italian men really changed. Well, except for that mother fucker who tried to get a blow job from me simply for providing me a ride to a very short distance... MOTEHR FUCKER!!!
...Enough said.

As bus moves along, thinking I won't be able to get a place to stay without my ID scares me. I sent an SMS to Filippo too, but he couldn't give me an answer. I send an SMS to Shannon, the one who always act as my babysitter, and inform him that my ID is lost. He sends me US consulate number right away. Then he calls me and tells me they should be able to track down who I am despite I don't pocess any photo ID. I am so greatful for all these people looking after me... Out of desperation, I send an SMS to Zephyr. Knowing him, he'd just delete out my message but I figured that'd be the worst thing would happen. Had it been some rural place, I could crash on a park bench, but this is Napoli. The most chaotic and dangerous city in Italy!
"Yo, I know I'm asking a lot but I am on my way to Napoli and I need a place to stay. Can I crash at your place just for 1 night?"
He sends me a reply.
"Who it this is?"
...Fuck, is English really his 1st language???
"Nic! The one who you don't wish to talk to anymore!"
"Are you in Naples right now?"
"I am on my way. The bus will arrive at 1720."
"Why don't you have a place to stay?"
"Been traveling for past 2 weeks. Haven't the chance to find one. Say no and I'll understand!"
"No."
Fine.
I bite my lips as I delet his message. He never understood my traveler's heart and he never will. I don't bother explaining that my ID card is lost, and won't be able to get a room without it, but that's my problem, not his. Is it?
I decide to try the internet point. Filippo's friend Domenico is my last hope, who lives about an hour away from Napoli. I beat myself up for not writing his number down and I can only get it from the internet. I decide to get an access with my leave paperwork but the guy declines because he needs a photo identification. I come out, and lookup my guidebook to see if I can find some place to stay.
"...Excuse me... Do you need a place to stay?"
A guy approachs to me and talks to me with a caution. Brown hair, brigth green eyes. He does not speak very good English at all. Can he be a Napolitan? Is he trying to rip me off by luring me to a very expensive hotel?
"Yes."
"We, too." He points his friend who's next to him.
"I've got some list of hostels." I show him my guidebook.
"Parli l'Italiano?"
"...No."
"Oh? Where from?"
"France."
"Oh!"
I immediatly put my guard down. They just got here today as well. I let them look at my guidebook and they write some information down. Then I tell them I lost my documents, and really need to use the internet. They let me borrow somebody's scanned passport copy, but it gets rejected again. So he goes to the counter.
"She's with me. Here's my passport. My name is right there. She's with me."
The guy at the counter gives me an access this time.
I FUCKING LOVE THE FRENCH.
I get a hold of Domenico and he tells me how to get to his place. I take the bus and as I move along, I think about what all happened and put a bitter smile on my face. An American guy who lives in 3 bedroom villa, who lives right on the outskirt of Napoli, rejected me and wouldn't put me in his place. The one who didn't want to be my friends anymore because I am always so "negative." That I don't get particularily attracted to American guys and that I will never sleep with him by any chance. Yet, a French and Napolitan were the the ones who rescued me from being stranded in this city... "Give me that kind of shit and this is what you get," he might thought, but does it really help anything? Had he asked me the same, I'd still take him in without any hesitation. But I know he'd never care about what I think.
Oh well.

So I get off at the bus station, and wait for Domenico. I immediatly buy a bottle of water and guzzle it down. After all those years I've been trained to drink tons of water at all times, thirst can be the most unbearable feeling.

...So now I am at Domenico's place. Finally!

Always so hard to stay goodbye...

2006-06-16T07:49:00.000-07:00

Later on, I receive Filippo's SMS on my phone. He wanted to know how it went with my hitch hiking. Poor Filippo... He must've been worried sick since he dropped me off by the gas station. So I reply him back with what happened.
"I am so sorry. Some men are like "animals" I hope you will meet different people in the future."
That was at least a comfort... It can't be bad. There are loads of good people I can meet from now on. It, just, cannot, be, that, bad.

Gianni takes me to interent point so I can check my e-mail. Then we look around the town some more. It is now dinnertime and he made some real good totellini. When he's cooking, I am not allowed to be near kitchen. He's been feeding me so much that I'd gain weight staying with him. And the food tastes so good!

Then Giovanni calls me to inform that I can stay with his family in Matera. He gives me his number, his father's number, his brother Vito's number, house number, and warns me that Vito does not speak much English and his father does not speak any English at all. Va bene, grazie. Somehow I am not worried.

Nightfall comes down, and we went out to look around Gianni's university area. Ultra modern building that has some very interesting spots here and there. Pictures I took cameout very unique. In a fact, the whole area is modern. The university is new and everything has been built around the university. Such is fairly rare in Italia, speaking from my experience...

We come back home. A bright moon rises and shines inside the room. He's got some awesome view out on the balcony! We chatted out on the balcony for a while, looking out the moon. I was greatful I was staying at Gianni's place. It felt almost like my safe heaven. Especially after my shock from what happened with my 1st hitching. Here I am away from everything and taking a break for a bit. And feel like I can truley relax. It's soothing and he's been taking such good care of me.

I talk about my plan to go to Matera. Train does not go there. Public transportation is bad. Giovanni told me buses run only in the morning so I will have to take the train very early. So I think about taking train as far as it goes and try another hitch hiking.

Next morning, I pack to leave. Gianni doesn't want me to go, and I wish I can stay some more but that is simply not possible. I got other places to go and I only have so much time. Even if I had more time, his roommate is coming back later in the afternoon and will claim his bed, since I was using his bed.

"Please, take caution. You can try hitch hiking but do check the time table for the bus first..."
His eyes are filled with worry as I tell him how I plan to get there.
"Oh, don't worry. I'll be fine." I tell him with smile.

He takes me to the train station. I enjoy the ride as the train moves along from West to the East. I will be in Matera soon. I am going to see Sassi. As the train arrives in Metapondo, I have a feeling that I will be able to get a ride here.

I check around the area. Totally beaten track with hardley ever any traffic... Good. Good! I walk further and check out some spots where I can stand around. Then I decided to walk until I get to find some good spot. I walked and walked and walked. I will stay here for 3 days if I have to. "But Nic, you will get a ride here. You will get a ride here!" I tell myself. I spotted some cardboard box. I have a marker with me that I bought in Sicily in case I'd have to make a sign. So I made a nice big sign that has "MATERA" on.

I walk some more. I put away my sunglasses so drivers can see my face. I walk and walk and walk and flash the sign and stick my thumb up to any cars that passes me by. I gave up smiling. I am now looking desperate. It's hot out and I am hoping someone will take a pity of me and pick me off of the street.

There stops ENEL pickup truck. ENEL is Italian electricity company. There are 2 men in the pickup and don't seem to appear any threat. I get inside.
"It is harder to get a ride here." One man tells me.
"We are not going to Matera... But we will drop you off at the spot where it will be easier for you to get a ride."
Ah, ah, a good sign!

They drop me off by an autostrada exit. A perfect spot! Yes, yes. Nic, you will get a ride! You will get a ride! My fear disappears. I somehow feel assurance. I flash the sign as a car rolls out. They stop... A family!!! A man, 2 women, and a babygirl. What else can be safter than that? What else can be more assuring than that? I run towards to hop in. And I start to chatter. To show my gratuity, I wrote everyone's name in Korean and they seem to be very delighted.
"We are not Italians," the man said.
"No?"
"We are from Albania."
"Oh, nice!"

They drop me off at the town center. I call Vito's father and he comes out to pick me up. He does not speak any English indeed, but he asks me if I speak any French. Only if I can... He treats me to a coffee and leads me to an apartment building where I get my own room! Woo hoo!

Getting there is half the fun???

2006-06-14T08:51:00.000-07:00

A lot happened on my way to go to Cosenza from Palermo. Why did it have to be so freakin much to get out of the island? And why did it have to be after all the wonderful experiences, the last bit have to be so ugly? During that one day, I hitch hiked, took a train, caught a ferry, took a bus, and took a train again to finally arrive in Cosenza.

As I booked my ticket and hopped on the train with my trembling mind, the train was moving on, as I was still watching the wonderful scenary. By the shoreline, the blue water, strange rock formation... it is just wonderful. And then I think about what just happened. How a person who lives by such a beautiful place can possibly think about something so ugly?

I get off the train. Thought it'd take some effort to find the port, it happens to be right next to the station that I get off. As I hopped on the ferry boat, a nice man checks the ticket and asks if I am from China or Korea.
The first time any Italian mentioned anything about Korea. So I am a bit delighted.

I get inside the ferryboat. First I sat outside to enjoy the scenary and the wind, but the sun was just too strong. And I am still recovering from the sunburns on my shoulders, so I decide to get inside. On one of the cushionly long benchs, I lay down and drift to sleep. Then I wake up just on time to get off at Villa San Giovanni, my port.

I think about trying one more hitch hiking, but really, I am not over the shock yet. And the time frame Gianni can take me in is limited. I want to get there as fast as possible and lay down. I get myself a ticket, and was told by a cleaning guy that I need to take a bus because there's a problem with the train.

They put everyone in the bus. Fuck! Why can't anything be simple? After a couple hours of ride, we switch back to train. As we move along, I am worried if I am making him wait for too long...

Finally the train arrives at the final destination around 10 pm. I was out on the road since 7 am today. Ah ah, I feel relieved as I see Gianni coming to pick me up. World is a strange place indeed. This morning, I was riding a car as a man wanted me to give him a blowjob in return, now I am with another guy who is gentle, shy and quiet, who took me in with his open arms...
"I apologize for all Italian men..." He tells me as I tell him about my 1st hitch hiking experience.

As soon as we arrive at his home, he immediatly feeds me rice salad, and some fruits that I inhaled away. I haven't had anything to eat all day. I was so shocked and worried and anticipated that I forget to eat. He's got everything ready for me. Towel, food, bed... When I wake up this morning, there were breakfast ready on the table. He didn't eat yet, he was waiting for me to wake up. And I was sleeping until noon!

We eat, and I take a shower. He takes me out so he can show me around town. Cosenza was lovely little place, where there are hardly any tourists. As we look around and talking to each other, I realize how much I have changed since... Some time ago. Life of moving around and so much traveling turned me into almost different person. I used to be just like him. Shy, quiet, reserved... I had to change to survive. From time to time I feel like I am talking to my mirrored self. He reminds me so much about the inner side of me.

Then we come to a internet cafe, and Giovanni's message on how to get to Matera is in my inbox. Cool! I got to leave tomorrow, but I will really miss my time here in Cosenza...

1st hitch hiking experience!!!

2006-06-13T09:00:00.000-07:00

Well, Fillippo is asking time after time if I am sure about doing this, and I really don't have the option to say no... This might be my only chance in my lifetime I get to try hitch hiking... Last night, the very same dog came back and cried again. Oh hell, please stop! I thought. Something told me this can't be a good sign...

Fillippo picks a spot for me at a gas station near autostrada entrance and drops me off. He took his time to bring me over there despite his work is at the opposite direction. My heart starts to beat like a drum. I am totally scared, but I pull myself together. There I start asking people if they can take me to Messina. All frawned at me and waved me away. Or saying it is too far, and they are not going there.

"Where are you going?" The guys at the gas station asks me.
"Messina... I have to go to Cosenza." I reply.
"Why don't you take a train? Train station is right there. Messina is over 200km away! It will be very difficult. Take a train!"
Yeah do you think I am trying to hitch a ride because I don't know that?

So I move a bit away from the gas station, and put my thumb out to see if anyone stops. I will not leave this street until I get my first ride. Indeed, some people did stop, but as soon as I tell them I am going to Messina, they all move away.

Finally someone stops and offers ride to at least Termini after about 45 minuts.
"From Termini, you can catch a train there" says he.
Hell, I might have to do that. At this rate I might have to stand out on the road all day. At least I can say I did try my first hitch hike.
As we move along, I notice he does not say much. He's not even asking my name, which I'd think unsual. Then he tells me, since he is doing me a favor and bringing me to the train station, he wants me to give him a blow job. I am not believing my ears. As I look at him I feel my face flushing white.
"No, no!"
"Why?"
Why? What am I suppose to say? First, I am too frightened to think about any words to say. Second, if I thought about anything, probably I wouldn't be able to express in Italian. Third, even if I could, would he be able to understand?
"No!!!" I look around as I am thinking about jumping out of the car.
"Okay, okay... Don't worry. I will just bring you to the train station here."
I am constantly looking around, still. Thinking he might be bringing me to some isolated spot.
"Relax, don't worry." He tells me. After he made a couple turns, there comes a small village.
"See? Train station." Says he. There was one indeed.
I get off, and smile at him. "Thank you, thank you very much..." He smiles back at me and proceeds.
I am shocked. My legs were shaking and my hands unable to hold onto anything. I go to the train station and buy myself a ticket to go to Messina right away. Figured something like this will happen, but dayum, why did it have to be my first ride?

I arrive in Messina, then I catch myself a ferry to get to Villa San Giovanni. There I get another train ticket to go to Cosenza and text Gianni to inform my arrival... I won't stop hitch hiking, but not today. Not too soon. With this state of mind if anyone else asks for anything similiar, probably I will bring myself and that mother fucker down to a cliff...

So I wait for the train now...

Palermo, Sicily (Day 4)

2006-06-12T11:17:00.000-07:00

Due to lack of sleep, I decided to stay at Fillippo's for 1 more day and rest. I slept all I want, and went to a local supermarket and bought myself some things to eat. I knew I needed some Vitamin. Plum cakes and water for tomorrow just in case I get stranded on the street. Than some milk, apples, and strawberries. I knew I needed some vitamin intake. Fruits work very well due to the fact it provides all the Vitamins that veggies provide, plus sugar that gives energy. Then some Yogurt. I bring it back and chowed them down.

I decided to check out if archiological museum is open (was closed before so I couldn't enter). So I buy a bus ticket and head out to the city center. And well, it was closed, still...

So I aimlessly walk around again, and find myself another market! As I stroll through, I found some oranges (they weren't in the supermarket). As I approach, the guy by the fruit stand grabs a plastic bag to get me what I want.
"I just need 1 orange..." I tell the guy.
As I grab one, he waves me away. Wow, a free orange! Oranges are very convenient fruit on the road. It has loads of vitamin C, and since the skin can be easily peeled, you don't have to worry about whatever the crab that is on the fruit itself.

I proceed some more, and what do I find? Boiled corns on the cob for 1 euro each! Picking up boiled corns in outdoor market was something I could never do ever since I left Korea! Without hesitation, I grab one and munch it down as I proceed.

I stroll some more, and decide to come back. On the way back, I got myself a marker and a piece of cardboard in case I need to make a sign tomorrow for hitch hiking. I hope I will make it on time so Gianni won't have to wait for me much in Cosenza...

Palermo, Sicily (Day 3)

2006-06-11T10:04:00.000-07:00

So here I am walking around the town. Visiting sites. Being lost is perfectly fine here. Every corner, there's something worth to see or check out. I try to somehow stay on the main road as much as possible because my lack of sense of direction due to my turnnel vision has always been troublesome.

But I can never resist the temptation to check out the markets. Always. There I spot a market district and my feet carry me there before I even realize it. Just like home. Cloths, lamps, cosmetics, cheap jewelies... Nothing ever worth buying but somehow so much fun to look at.

As I carry on, I feel somebody's stare. The moment I look up, a shiver runs down my body. Upper part of market building, out on the balcony, stands a guy without his shirt as he's looking down at me. His striking beauty makes my breath stop. His wavy black hair and bronze skin shines in bright sunlight. I feel as if I am a snake's prey bird, helplessly frozen stuck in front of its glare. As our eyes meet, his hypnotizing fierce black eyes are not looking away. I pull myself together and turn around to proceed while I feel my legs shaking. I wouldn't be able to resist if he ever decides to flirt with me. He could get me in a... Really big... Trouble...

After I get back to Fillippo's place, we get ourselves take away pizzas as he explains how sky will fall down when Sicilians are unable to eat when they want to. You can always get some sort of food any time of the day. We chattered for some time. He's been around so much and he's got a lot to say. And it's always interesting. He offeres to take me around the city next day and I agree.

Then I log onto the internet. For whatever the reason, I wanted to check out Kinga's web site, and I ended up in tears. The hitch hike girl has passed away, by Malraria. No! Why? I wanted to tell you about my hitch hiking stories and you'd been so proud of me, Kinga!!! Perhaps she became an angel who looks after all hitch hikers. I wished her spirit will be with me on the road, as I am about to start my own hitch hiking. As strange as it sounds, that night I could almost feel her presence. I invite her to my bed and imagine her laying down next to me, looking at me, holding my hand, and smiling at me. I drift to sleep... Then I wake up. A dog is crying, barking. Bow, wow, wow, woo-woo-woo!!! I see a dog out the window. A stray dog... They are everywhere in Palermo. He is staring at one direction. He pays no heed to cars nor people nor anything else. He keeps on looking at one empty space and wouldn't stop barking. Woo-woo-woo!!! As I watch him, only one thought comes to my mind.

Dogs can see the ghosts. Spirits. He is reacting to something that cannot be seen by human eyes.
He kept me up all night. I probably had 3 hours of sleep, if that. I wasn't sleeping very well anyway. Than Fillippo takes me out to a very wonderful tour on his Vespa. To the mountains, beachs, all kinds of churchs and other things. What luck had it been to stay at his place!!! As we move along, I keep on thinking about Kinga. I am actually worried sick how my hitch hiking trip will go. One more day and it will start.

Palermo, Sicily (Day2)

2006-06-10T04:45:00.000-07:00

I am happily lost in Palermo, Sicily. I've never seen such a beautiful city like this. Fillipo carries me with his Vespa and drops me off at the town center. We talked about a lot of things last night. I was going to go out with him to meet his friends last night but what I really needed was sleep! Although I kept on waking up. I can't remember the last time I woke up in the morning and said, "ah, ah, I slept so good last night!"

So off I go, as I was walking along the streets, I immediatly realized it will be impossible to see all Palermo has to offer. I am walking along the street to where ever the wind carries me. It has always been my way. The entire city is fabulous, no matter what part. Whether it's dirty or clean, rich or poor lives, every single spot of this city is magnifisant.

"I'll drop you off at the city center tomorrow, so you can look around. From the street I take you, you will be able to see all the things that guide book says. What time would you like to wake up?" He said last night.
"Around 10 o'clock, is it going to be okay?" And he seems very surprized. He doesn't seem to understand I am here to hang out, not for sightseeing. I am hardly ever interested in sightseeing. Rather, I travel because I am constantly feeding my urge to get out of where I belong. From my very young age, I learned how to hate my surroundings really well. Apartment where we couldn't even have a dog, filthy basement without any heat during the bitter cold winter, studio apartment in Los Angeles full of thieves around us... As a child, I aimlessly wandered while I am hoping to find something new. I'd roam around the districts where the richs lived and admired their beautiful houses and hoped one day I would be able to live like them. I am not happy no matter where I am, as long as I belong there. It has to be somewhere new, somewhere strange, where I know nobody. There everything's justified. It's okay I've got no friends there. I am a stranger in town. It's okay not to know and miss out on things. I don't LIVE here so of course I can't catch up with everything!

I must've left my phone charger at Giovanni's place. So I had to get myself another one. After that, the mission has been accomplished and now I'm off to see if I can find the great Cathadral of Palermo...

Palermo, Sicily (Day 1)

2006-06-09T09:50:00.000-07:00

Flight arrived in Sicily on time, around 1045, but I cannot meet up with Fillippo until 1430. We agreed to meet at the central station, so after my arrival I look for the bus to get to the station.
"Do you need to get in?"
The bus driver asks as I am checking out the sign to see if this bus is indeed going to the station. I ask him if the bus is going to the central station and he tells me to hop in.
"Cinque euro! Hello!"
He shouts as I walk into the bus. Yeah, yeah, I know this ain't no free ride, bugger! I'm just taking my time getting the money out!!!

I was shocked to an amaze at how crystal clear his Italian sounds to me. Far more clearer than Milanese, Venizians, especially Friulians around me, or even Romans! I've never heard Italian that sounds so... Italian! Such vibrant up-and-downness, cute sounds and way of saying things. Thought Sicilians have their own dialects, so figured their way of saying things were a hell a lot more difficult, but no!!! Ah ah, that was like an icing on the cake! As the bus is moving, the driver enthusiastically explains about Sicilian wines to the other passengers.

I am really enjoying my ride. It ended up becoming another real good tour! The bus was new that provides the footrest which makes my trip all the difference (I'm very short, you know). And inside of the bus is pleasantly air conditioned. The magnifisent scenary!!! From coast to all the way to Palermo, it was too beautiful and breathtaking. I get off at the central station and I've got a couple hours to kill until I meet up with Fillippo. So I decided to find an internet cafe. I ask around, and find a internet spot by Western Union near the station. Found one, but it was... Closed. As I'm turning around disappointed, a guy in front of a suvenior shop stops me.
"Ciao"
"Ciao"
"Speak English?"
"Yes."
"Oh, Japan?" Oh, hell, there goes THAT annoying ass question again...
"No, Corea... Corea."
"Ah, speak French? I speak French."
"No, non parlo Frencia."
"Ah! Parli l'Italiano?!"
"...Un poco..."
He quickly switches to Italian.
"I eat now. Wanna come? Want to eat with me?"
"No, I'm not hungry. I need to use the internet."
"Internet! I know. It's over there!" And there I tried to post, which I typed, and accidently... deleted my previous post. This fella won't leave my side. He gives me his phone number, his name, and keeps running his mouth while I'm typing. Then I get kicked out because the shop owner is going somewhere. "Come with me! We eat together!" The annoying fella tells me. Well... It'll still be a couple hours until I meet Fillippo. So I figured, might as well have him entertain me. He points a raggaty ass, beat of piece of crap car on the street. "Mine." He says proudly. ...Very well, wait until you get to see my "lady," my crimson red MR-2 turbo...

He goes in a shop, gets some food and drink, and leads me to a back alley. Very well, mister. But if you ever dare to lay a finger on me, you better be prepared to get slapped. One room flat, ew, don't want to live here if I were you... Then I think about Eve's one room flat in Estonia and how pretty and spotlessly clean her place was... Judging by his looks, he's no more than maybe 23. I am tempted to ask him if he knows how old I am, but why bother? I know he'll ask me later anyway.
"I meet up with my friend in 2 hours." I say to him.
Although I used the word "male friend," he seems to show no regard.
"Don't worry! Relax! Let's eat!"
What part of "I'm not hungry, I don't want to eat" does he not understand?
He turns on the TV and continue to run his mouth.
"How old are you?"
Aha! How did I know he'd ask that?
"32."
There he goes. "uh-oh, perhaps she was a wrong catch..." kinda look...
"I'm not Italian, by the way."
"Oh? What are you, then?"
"What am I?"
He laughs and looks at me as if he's telling me to take a guess.
"Morroco?"
"Right! How did you know?"
"Well, you look it," I wanted to say, but I don't know how I'd say that in Italian. So I just laugh. "Married?"
"No."
Fuck... Now it's REALLY time to get the hell out of here.
"I go now. I want to look around some more."
"No! No! Stay!"
"But I want to look around. I go now."
"Well... Ciao."
He tries to kiss me on my lips. Aha! How did I know that was coming?
"Do NOT touch me."
I quickly pull out and tell him firmly.
"Va bene," he says, and he puts out his cheek for me to kiss.
"DO, NOT, TOUCH, ME!" I say it again. Ah ah, it seems as though it'd be my favorite phrase the whole time during my trip. This time, he gets the message and he wants to shake my hand. No problem.
"Call me if you need anything!" Says he, and I said I will, knowing I never will. Although I have no intention of getting involved with him in any way, I felt sad for him due to the fact that I know being alone and trying to make living in a foriegn country can be terribly lonley. When I was young, not speaking English, trying to survive, in a very cruel place called Los Angeles, California, I felt exactly the same.
"Look, I'm a stranger in this place too. I need some company. I'm awefully lonley and you seem to be alone here as well. Let's be friends. I'm so tired of being all by myself..." That's all there was to it. Poor guy... He was a beautiful one indeed.

So I walked around the central station some more. There was no locker room so I had to carry my back pack the whole time with me. But somehow I felt fairly safe. Then soon I realized that I made a brutal mistake of being out in the sun yesterday without tanning lotion. The thing is, the weight of my back pack really doesn't bother me much but my shoulders got slightly sunburned and the back pack straps on my shoulders are getting mighty irritating...

Palermo is facinating. I mean, just down right FACINATING. Even Roma wasn't this facinating and strking to me. The city is filthy, but never ugly. Every corner is filled with beautiful sun baked buildings. People pass me by and give me welcoming smile. You see, from my experience, Sardinians are the "polite" ones, and Sicilians are the "kind" ones. Only in Sardinia and Sicilia (so far) people would stop to let me go on my way before themselves. Not like in my area, nor any other part of Italy, where people push and shove and give no regards to others. And Sicilians... Well, they kinda do the same but it somehow makes me feel different. They seem to do it not because it's only the right thing to do, but they do it in the same way they'd do it for any of their friends. Not saying what's better, just saying there's a difference.

I get frightened as I cross every crosswalk. Like Sardinia, Signals for the crosswalk are rarly seen here. One simply proceeds, and vehicles are expected to stop. Again, something that I will never see in my region. Then I thought to myself, "come on, Nic. Did you forget where you came from!?" Perhaps. Perhaps I have forgotten. And perhaps that's the reason why all the surroundings seem all too familiar. The markets, busy streets, filthy back allies and hot sun. All too familiar with the scenaries in Seoul, Korea, back in the 80's! As I simply walk along the street, my mind is continuously stimulated so I'm never bored.

Then I thought about the "granita di caffe con panna" I read in the guidebook. You get that in Roma. Figure I would try one here, so I walk into a bar. Ma non cé... So I select the most similiar thing, "caffe fredda." The cold coffee. Ahhhhhhhhh!!! What a coffee! The bartender gives me warm smile as I tell him this is my very first time having caffe freddo and it is so good. The genue, warm smile comes from his warm blue eyes. Satisfied, also resisting the temptation to have another one, I ask him how much is the price. He points the cashier so I proceed to pay. "Ho avuto un caffe freddo." said I, but this guy does not trust me. He asks the bartender What exactly I had. Damn suspecting son of a gun... Have you ever seen any dishonest Asian tourists!!!???

Finally I meet Fillippo at the staion. He brought me to his flat and we talked about many things. I feel somewhat better as he tells me about other guests he had who hitch hiked their way up North. Then he tells me it'd be the best to try the gas stations, asking for rides to families, couples, etc. "makes sense!" I agreed. Thinking I'd do the same.

Okay, time for some nap now. Lack of sleep for the past few days is really catch me up. I'll see what Palermo will bring later on... And I'm sure my other posts won't be nearly as long from now on...

Now it REALLY starts... From Estonia, Tallinn to Tartu, to Italy, Cagliari, Sardinia

2006-06-09T03:45:00.000-07:00

I missed out a couple days of post, and I just pressed the wrong key by a mistake and erased all my message got deleted. Now I'm in Palermo, Sicily, coming from Cagliari, Sardinia. About to get kicked out of this internet cafe because the owner is closing for siesta (I think?), so will have to come back later.

....Okay, now I'm back, this time using the internet in Fillipo's home...

So many happenings during the past few days. Probably too many to mention. The thing is, with the habit that was stuck with me for 30+ years, my thoughts hardly ever escape my head. As soon as I get a hold of a keyboard or a pen, everything disapprears from my head. And it is only up to a person who is carrying conversation with me to pull it out. But I will try really really really hard to keep a track of things. I see my posts being very basic without much fancy stuff, until I get back home and pretty up things on my own. Limited interet usage won't allow me to do much stuff. Plus I'm still not sure what exactly to do so I still need to make up my mind.

It started with Tallinn, Estonia. I was on my way to make my visit while Thomas is still in Estonia. We stayed with sweet Eve in Tallinn. She was wonderful to us (I prey I'll meet her again sometime), and spending time with Thomas in his college dormitory in Tartu was fun. Now I'm back in Italy and just received a text message from Thomas that he arrived back in Germany as well. I think about him from time to time and wish he was traveling with me, for the fact he makes such a wonderful traveling companion...

Coastline of Sardinia was beautiful. It was very different from where I am at. There was a technical difficulty at the airport in Cagliari so we couldn't land there. Instead, the plane landed in Alghero, then they put all our asses in 2 buses and drove us to Cagliari. It seemed horrible but it ended as a wonderful tour of Sardinia. Although it felt strange to be summertime and seeing everything brown... Later, Giovanni told me it's like that in summertime due to too much sun. It is rather the winter when things are green. Hm...

Giovanni's hospitality was unbelievable. You are not allowed to bring your food. You must eat what he has in his place. You are not allowed to do anything in his place. You are the guest and he'll do everything for you. I regretted I am not spending much time in Sardinia, bowed to myself I'll come back for another visit on September, the time he recommended. Probably with my friend Brandy.

There, I met 2 polish girls, Violet and Natalie, who I spent some time on the beach together. I haven't been out on the beach since the time I was in Qatar. I've never really been a mountain person, rather, a beach person. I always prefered water so much better. Although the wind was chilly, it'd be a shame if I don't get to swim in the water, after I came all the way out to Sardinia, so I decided to run for a while to get warmed up and get into the water. I did not mind. In fact, I WANTED to run. When you're in an environment where you can truely enjoy yourself, I suppose you want to do what's actually good for you. While I was running, I thought about my swim master Jojo, who was a hardcore teacher. I was his hardcore student. But what I didn't think about was the difference between swimming in the pool and in the beach where there are a lot of waves. And there were too much crap in the water so I needed a pair of swim goggles, which... I forgot to bring. But whatever....

After tumbling around in the water for a while, I had enough. I tried to take a bus way back and I try to buy the ticket.
"1 euro 50, please, exact changes only."
He tells me as he sees 5 euro bill in my hand, and I try to explain I really don't have any change. He does not listen to me.
Fuck.
I get off of the bus, and buy a briosche that I didn't want to eat, to get some changes. As I'm chewing the briosche, another bus soon approachs and I could buy the ticket.

Well, I managed to get off at the right spot, but I am unable to find the way back to Giovanni's place. My lack of sense of direction due to my extream turnnel vision has always been troublesome, you see. So I call Giovanni. He sends me Fernando, his newly arrived guest who came from Brazil, to fetch me from the bus station. Fernando speaks excellent English, and happened to be very friendly.

After dinner, Giovanni takes me out and gives me a quick tour of Cagliari with his car, for the fact I leave next morning and didn't have much time to explore the city. We get up early, and he takes me to the airport and say goodbye.

So, here it starts!

2006-06-06T12:23:00.000-07:00

I'm nervous. I'm scared. I've never done anything like this. We'll see how it goes. It's as if I'm about to enter the basic training. I feel like this is something I must go through to complete this part of my life. A course, a lesson, or something like that. I am tempted to quit but I can't get rid of this urge. I got to taste this side of life!